Wig Information Center

History of Wigs

Throughout the history of wigs, we learn that they are more than a fashion trend and the many significant roles they have played over the years. Generally, wigs were a symbol of wealth and importance of the wearer and the styles directly reflected the grandeur of the eras becoming more eccentric and exaggerated in radiant times. Not only women, but men as well wore wigs. In times of war, wigs served as protection against harsh weather as well as making astounding impressions on the enemy.

Egyptians, who kept their heads shaved for comfort in the desert heat, needed a method of protecting their heads from the sun. While the poor wore felt caps, royalty and those that could afford them wore wigs. Along with other ancient civilizations, the Egyptians also recognized the positive health implications wigs provided. They would shave their heads to avoid head lice. Wigs, which could be easily cleaned, protected them from the sun and could be removed if desired. These wigs were made from human hair, sheep’s wool or palm leaf fibers.

During the Roman Empire, in ancient Greece and Imperial Rome, wigs were both for personal use as well as in the theater. The styles and colors of the wigs revealed the nature of individual characters in the theater while the fashionable women of Imperial Rome always wore blond or red-haired wigs.

Europe began a revival of wigs in the late 16th century. Women had begun wearing them, made in Italy from either human hair or silk threads. Louis XIII began wearing a wig in 1630 to cover his baldness. During the reign of Louis XIV, wigs were increasingly popular as the king wore them not only to disguise his baldness but also appear taller, by wearing towering hair styles. Wigs also became symbols of profession for judges, doctors and clergymen. Wigs began to lose popularity during the 18th century, but that doesn’t mean wigs were completely forgotten. During the late eighteenth century, the modern technique of ventilating was invented and springs were being sewn into the caps for a secure fit. In 1805, a flesh-colored hair net was invented by a Frenchman for wig making. Many improvements followed after including knotting techniques, fitting methods and the use of silk net foundations.

Today, wigs no longer represent a person’s social status, although demand has never been higher. Wigs are being worn for prosthetic, cosmetic and convenience reasons. The industrialization of wig production has made it possible for quality synthetic and human hair wigs to be available to all.

How Custom Wigs Are Made

Custom wig production is labor intensive and can cost thousands of dollars. Movie and television actors often use custom wigs because they have a more authentic look. Below are the steps that a wig maker can use:

1. The client’s head is measured from multiple angles around the head. Everyone’s head has a different size and shape. Exact measurements are necessary to create a custom wig.
2. The head is wrapped in cellophane and layers of filament tape are placed on the head to make a cast.
3. The cast is then removed and placed on a wig block.
4. A pencil is used to trace the shape of the scalp around the cast.
5. A piece of polyester and lace is then placed on the block and cut to fit the shape of the head.
6. A finer layer of lace is then pinned to the first layer of lace.
7. A tail of human or synthetic hair, in the client’s choice of color, is placed on a tool called a hackle. A hackle is a big comb or board with sharp steel teeth or spikes. Any possible hairs to be used for highlights are placed on top of the tail.
8. The hair is then dragged through the teeth. This action, called ‘hackling,’ gets progressively more vigorous and can be dangerous if the wig maker’s hands get too close to the teeth. The hackling stops when the hair is properly blended.
9. The hair is placed on another board with small metal pins all around it. The hair is placed in between the metal pins and another similar board is placed on top of the hair. The pins on the two boards interlock with the hair in the middle.
10. Hair is then pulled out a few strands at a time.
11. The strands are then knotted, beginning at the nape, into the lace with a small needle. This process is called ‘ventilating,’ and takes a minimum of 50 hours for each wig.
12. During the ventilating, the hair is combed and fluffed to give it a natural look.
13. The front of the wig is weaved one strand at a time since it receives the most attention and scrutiny.
14. After all of the hair is attached to the lace, the wig then needs some styling and trimming. When the extra lace is cut off, the wig is ready to be worn!